From the Parthenon to Graceland

You see the huge columns first, part of an overall classical design that harkens back millennia.  It’s the Parthenon, and it’s the most impressive structure we’ve seen this trip.  Now before you question how the Junior Fellows made it across the globe in a matter of hours, it should be known that Nashville, TN hosts an exact replica of The Parthenon found in Athens, Greece.

The Parthenon, Nashville, TN

The Parthenon, Nashville, TN

It was created for the 1897 Centennial Expo in Nashville, rests in the center of a large public park, and boasts an impressive museum within. Ancient Greek artifacts, historic paintings, and enormous statues line the halls; standing among huge statues within a huge building definitely made us feel very, very small. Two sets of fourteen ton bronze doors guard the entrance to a 41 foot tall statue of Athena.

Athena

Athena

The room is lined with exact replicas of various sculptures from Athens, created from molds of the originals. We definitely felt that we were in Greece, soaking in the local culture. But sooner or later we had to return to the outside world of good ol’ Tennessee.

Speaking of which, we got to see the Grand Ole Opry!

Grand Ole Opry

Grand Ole Opry

More in line with the theme of our trip, we visited and toured yet another Presidential home, this time our Nation’s 11th President, James Knox Polk. Polk has frequently been ranked as one of our greatest Presidents; his greatest contribution was the expansion of the United States to the Pacific Ocean. The Polk home is located in the quaint town of Columbia, Tennessee and is the only Polk residence that has been preserved (obviously excluding the White House).

James Polk's Home

James Polk’s Home

Polk and his family grew up in this federal styled home. Built by Polk’s Father, James not only grew up in the home, but would return back for one-week with his wife a few days after being elected President of the United States. Brick paths unfold in serpentine fashion through a garden (not original to the home) that connect the 4 or 5 structures that make up the Polk Museum grounds.

One of the more interesting parts of the museum was the exhibit covering Polk’s life. Of particular interest to me an exhibit explaining President Polk’s inauguration day. Just coming from the Presidential Inauguration of Barack Obama, this part of the exhibit explained the many ceremonial firsts that were implemented for his inauguration, and were thus used in subsequent inaugurations to the present. For instance, President Polk’s Inauguration was the first to play the song “Oh hail the chief,” and the first to utilize the telegraph to report the day’s activities in real time.  We were also able to see various artifacts of Sarah Polk, who took a very active role in Polk’s political life.

Sarah Polk's Inaugural Fan

Sarah Polk’s Inaugural Fan

From here we made our way to Memphis for a quick bite to eat on Bealle Street…

Junior Fellows on Beale Street

Junior Fellows on Beale Street

…and a stop by a couple of historic landmarks. We first made our way a few blocks over to the infamous Lorraine Motel. If you are a student of history, you know that the Lorraine Motel was the place where Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated on April 4th of the year 1968.

Lorraine Motel

Lorraine Motel

The original motel has since been preserved, complete with the exact cars, colors, and feel of the time period when the assassination took place. Atop the second floor balcony where Dr. King was fatally wounded hung a large wreath, paired with a stone marker below signifying the importance of the spot: a respectable memorial for a very respectable man.

Following this we made sure to swing by Graceland, the massive estate of The King of rock and roll Elvis Presley. Although after touring hours, we were able to grab a few pictures of the large home and private jet collection.

Graceland at Night

Graceland at Night

It’s not often you enjoy a trip that takes you from the Parthenon to James Polk to Elvis Presley, but the Junior Fellows are covering all the bases!

George Washington,Thomas Jefferson, and the Junior Fellows

Mount Vernon

As part of the Junior Fellows busy travel schedule, we embarked to Mount Vernon, situated in northern Virginia. This was the home of George Washington and is the most visited home in the United States. Originally set in the midst of 8,000 acres, the estate still covers much ground (50 acres) and offers beautiful views of the Potomac.

The mansion was first built in 1735 by Augustus Washington, father of the first president of the United States. George Washington inherited Mount Vernon in the 1750’s and expanded the one and half story home to a large three-story mansion.

Currently Mount Vernon appears as it looked in 1799, when George Washington died at the age of 67. The estate still bears the marks of a pioneer farm, containing a distillery, slave cabins, a sixteen-sided treading barn, and many other buildings.

Perhaps most stunning was the view of the Potomac River from the back porch.

Mt. Vernon from Across the Potomac

Mt. Vernon from Across the Potomac

Perhaps most interesting is that Washington built his closet on the first floor, even though his master bedroom was located on the second floor.  Prudently, he chose to avoid waking Martha, who would sleep for another two hours after Washington awoke.

Perhaps most noteworthy about our tour is that David Gregory, news anchor of Meet the Press on NBC, was standing right behind us.  Yes, this trip is full of surprises!

After a very chilly walk through the estate we arrived to the President’s tomb.  Everyone paid their respect with silence while looking in on the tomb of President and Mrs. Washington.

But the estate, as it turns out, is only part of the story.  Further down one of the estate’s many paths is the Donald Reynolds’ Education Center, which is a kind of Presidential Museum.  Not only did we get to see many artifacts such as George Washington’s wooden dentures, but also sat in on a highly-recommended 4D film addressing the strategy used to win the Revolutionary War.

Taken in all, Mt. Vernon is a great reflection of the size (literally and figuratively) of our Founding Father, as well as his tastes and accomplishments.

Junior Fellows at Mount Vernon

Junior Fellows at Mount Vernon

After visiting Mt. Vernon, we traveled to the town of Charlottesville, Virginia to visit Thomas Jefferson’s estate, Monticello.

Monticello

The Exterior of Monticello has a classical revival look, with an eye for the symmetrical in designing his home.  However, the design of the exterior does not follow the same as the interior.   The home goes against everything a person would expect a slave plantation home would look like:  where grand stair cases were the norm, Jefferson despised the idea of such a space hogger, so he installed a small and hidden staircase.

Relative to the other founding fathers, Jefferson was a well-traveled man.  When he found a design in a different country, he would try incorporate the design into his beloved Monticello.  For instance, he was fond of the bed-alcoves he found in Germany, and that is what we find in Monticello.  He enjoyed the skylights in found in France, and there are thirteen such skylights in Monticello.  The result was not only a cosmopolitan home, but also a home that, during Jefferson’s lifetime, was in a constant state of revision and construction, never fully complete.

Another fascinating part of the house is the underground tunnel linking different sections of the home.  Connecting slave quarters, kitchens, horse stables, smoke houses, and wine cellars, the tunnel also served as a passage for the “servants” (slaves and paid staff) so they would not have to be seen inside the home.

The entrance to Monticello is noteworthy for eclectic style.  World maps, busts of famous men (including his nemesis Alexander Hamilton), large fossils of the lower jawbones of the Prehistoric Mastodons, and Indian artifacts populate the entryway.  Perhaps most interesting to me, however, was the mounted set of Elk Antlers, which were sent to Jefferson by Lewis and Clark on their Louisiana Purchase expedition.

Junior Fellows at Monticello

Junior Fellows at Monticello

The home, with its many interesting Jeffersonian inventions and large library, offered a great insight into the mind of Thomas Jefferson.  It’s worth noting that Jefferson kept a very cluttered place.  The entry, for example, was often filled with piles of things Jefferson found interesting.

Jefferson’s views on slavery are far more complicated than a blog can accommodate.  He openly opposed slavery and wrote “all men are created equal” into the Declaration, even as he owned slaves and even as he fathered Sally Hemmings’ children.

Thinking of these contradictions brought me back to our time at the National Mall in Washington DC.  The Mall’s newest Memorial is for Martin Luther King, who stands at the Tidal Basin, with his arms crossed and a stern look on his face.  Across the Basin is the Jefferson Memorial, seemingly the object of MLK’s displeased glare.

Barboursville Ruins

Monticello, however, wasn’t the only interesting Jefferson structure we visited.  We also saw the magnificent and relatively unknown Barboursville ruins.  This structure was designed for James Barbour by Thomas Jefferson in 1814.  It stood in apparent magnificence (judged by contemporary assessments and the remains) but burnt in 1884, leaving a ghostly shell that only hints at the original design.  Although the house stands as merely a frame of the original edifice, the ancient historic feel to it was unprecedented in terms of the homes we had visited thus far.  I thoroughly enjoyed seeing such a historic home.

Barboursville Ruins

Barboursville Ruins

Following the Barboursville Ruins, we were able to see three other presidential spots.

Zachary Taylor

Orange County, Virginia hasn’t done a lot to preserve the legacy of one its own, Zachary Taylor.  The ill-fated Whig President (he died 16 months after taking office) does, however, have a plaque at the corner of the Courthouse.  It’s not much, but when you are in the land of Washington and Jefferson, a sixteen month president isn’t going to get a monument.

Zachary Taylor Plaque in Orange County, Virginia

Zachary Taylor Plaque in Orange County, Virginia

James Monroe & Andrew Johnson

We also saw the homes of James Monroe (Ashlawn-Highland, in Virginia) and Andrew Johnson (Greeneville, Tennessee).  Monroe was the last of the founding fathers to be President, presiding over the so-called “Era of Good Feelings,” a period when there wasn’t much party conflict (on the surface, anyway) in the US political world.  By Monroe’s presidency, the Federalists had largely died out, and the Whigs had yet to rise.

James Monroe's Home, Ashlawn-Highland

James Monroe’s Home, Ashlawn-Highland

Johnson also has an interesting story in US History, one that fit in well for us.  We had, of course, seen Lincoln’s home and Presidential Library, and we had also toured Mary Todd Lincoln’s home.  Now, we got to see Lincoln’s Vice-President’s home.  The City of Greenville is proud of Johnson, preserving his home, giving him a large statue, and featuring a replica of his birth home near the town square.  Many people remember Johnson as one of only two impeached presidents (Clinton being the other), but Johnson is even more memorable in another respect: he is the only president to serve as a US Senator after leaving the White House.

The Junior Fellows at Andrew Johnson's Home

The Junior Fellows at Andrew Johnson’s Home

And today was one of the most memorable for the Junior Fellows—four presidential homes, a presidential plaque, and the ruins of a home designed by a president.  But even as we reflect on an amazing day, we look forward to tomorrow, when Sam Houston will be part of our theme!

Andrew Johnson's Birthplace, With a Hint of Snow

Andrew Johnson’s Birthplace, With a Hint of Snow

Inauguration Day: Will Phillips

“Obama is a baby killer!” bellowed an anti-abortion protester from atop the tree he managed to shinny up undetected by security.   “Stop the killing of innocent babies!” he continued.  Alarming stuff, but especially so since my friends and I were seeing this action unfold at the 57th Presidential Inauguration.  The protester, along with unhealthy exposure to cold temperatures, long lines, and extensive searches by security, were all part of the democratic process, one the Political Science Junior Fellows and I were happy to participate in.

Attending a Presidential Inauguration is fraught with uncertainty, and the twin challenges of time and weather were particularly acute.  To safeguard against time issues, we left the hotel at about 4:30am on Inauguration Day to catch the Metro.  The early departure got us there on time, but it subjected us to colder temperatures (low thirties) for a longer period of time.  Like democracy, you take the good with the bad.

The DC Metro

The DC Metro

Planning is essential.  Along with layers and layers of clothing, I brought hand-warmers, snacks, and lots of recording equipment, the latter to record the day’s events. The officers at the security checkpoint, however, had a different view of my planning than I did, and they spent much time unzipping zippers, turning on electronic devices, and otherwise investigating things.  After much delay, and exasperated looks from other Junior Fellows, we trudged on, eventually arriving at our designated area.

The National Mall is a large place, but we were fortunate to have good tickets courtesy of Congressman Kevin Brady.  We could actually see the Presidential Seal that adorned the podium!  This was democracy up close and personal.

Capitol_View_Web

Our next goal was to stake out our territory, which we did with diligent exactitude by the dawn’s early light, when the crowds were relatively sparse.  There wasn’t a lot of payoff to our territorial markers, which soon eroded with the arrival of more and more people.  By the end, we were “packed like sardines,” an apt cliché in this case—by the end, an estimated 750,000 or so people were on the National Mall.  We were all part of something special.

During the ceremony, we were able to see President Obama and the other dignitaries, and the sound system enabled us to hear the music and the speeches quite well, but not so well as we could hear the protester in the tree.  His rants at times overpowered the speakers, including Obama.

Rives Grogan, Protesting in a Tree

Rives Grogan, Protesting in a Tree

I was surprised that none of the audience members tried to chase the protester up the tree.  Perhaps they didn’t want to ruin a good day, or perhaps they took a good look at how high he was in the tree.  Either way, they left it to the police—who, incidentally, didn’t do a whole lot either.  They brought ladders, but these proved inadequate, and a police officer stopped climbing about halfway up the tree, in the ridiculous position of negotiating branch to branch with the protester.  Before long, authorities contented themselves with simply waiting him out.

The close spaces, the reaction against the protester, and the long hours of discomfort forged a bond among strangers in our area.  Conversations soon came alive, and the entertainment soon restored a bounce to the step of the onlookers.  President Obama’s spirited speech also energized the crowd, almost all of whom, of course, were Democrats.  But not necessarily in our group, which came in with split affiliations and, in fact, as a whole leaned Republican.

But in the spirit of democracy and the rule of law, the individuals who hold offices are secondary to the processes that put people in offices and allow them to govern.  And our entire group was unanimous in our support of that process.

There was something unique about standing alongside almost one million people, most of whom, I am sure, disagreed with me on a majority of policy issues.  And there was something about going through discomfort—did I mention the extended exposure to the cold and the endless standing?—to be part of the democratic process, a reminder that with rights come responsibilities.

Incidentally, shortly following the inauguration, the protester, too, was reminded about responsibly using rights: he was arrested.

Arrested

Arrested

No doubt the country will soon be beset by ongoing difficulties and unexpected travails.  On Inauguration Day, however, almost one million citizens stood outside the Capitol Building alongside our elected officials of both parties and unequivocally embraced the democratic process.  The country will be better off if we—and our elected officials—can do this more than once every four years.

Inauguration_JFs_Web

Inauguration Day: Taylor Parker

President Barack Obama was sworn in for his second term yesterday and I had the privilege of being there.  While most Americans in colder areas were warmly ensconced in their homes, I stood in the National Mall for about seven hours in near-freezing temperatures to watch a politician speak.  Yes, I am crazy for doing so, but I am equally crazy about politics. It was an extraordinary experience.

The day began a little after 4:00am, when a group of political science students stirred from our hotel and caught a Metro, where we sat huddled among countless others who were equally anticipatory of the day’s events.

The DC Metro

The DC Metro

After arriving at the National Mall and clearing security checkpoints, we began doing what we would do for much of the day: waiting.  Fortunately, thanks to Congressman Brady’s office, we were waiting with a really good view of the presidential podium.

inauguration_capitol_web

This five-hour period of waiting offered us the opportunity to get to know our fellow inaugural watchers.  At first, we experienced the awkwardness of being physically proximate to strangers, but we soon developed a friendship of sorts with those around us.

I enjoyed discussing politics with an older couple from Minnesota, a group from Tennessee, and a middle-aged woman who drove from New York. We didn’t mind being thrust into each other’s personal space by then, and our individual experiences grew into a collective experience.

Things livened up when a man began climbing a nearby tree.  There were laudatory comments about his industriousness and desire for a good view, but that changed when he pulled out a sign reading, “Pray to End Abortion.”

Rive Grogan Climbs a Tree to Protest Obama

Rive Grogan Climbs a Tree to Protest Obama

Attempting more to gain a platform than change minds, the man’s ranting, predictably, angered the crowd, who were more interested in hearing their President than a stranger’s views on abortion.  Eventually, the police surrounded the tree, the novelty wore off, and our attention shifted back toward the Capitol Building.

To warm up the crowd, figuratively if not literally, the PS-22 Chorus and the Lee University Choir did an astounding job of performing various musical pieces.  The Marine Band geared up, welcoming U. S. legislators, the Joint Chiefs of Staff, Supreme Court Justices, and many other public servants.  I was somewhat dismayed to hear the crowd boo former Vice-Presidential candidate Paul Ryan, who, after all, did extend a gracious hand this week, congratulating “President Obama on his inauguration” and expressing his desire to “join the country in celebrating this American tradition.”  On the flip side, however, the Clintons received perhaps the warmest reception of the dignitaries with the exception, of course, of the First Family.

The crowd moved into rapturous applause as they stepped out from the doorway to greet half a million cheers and twice that many clapping hands.  My new-found friends and I shouted at the top of our lungs, unable to believe we were, in person, watching the President before us.  The eagle had landed.

Even with performances throughout the ceremony from Kelly Clarkson, James Taylor, and Beyonce, the President was the star of the show.  When he began his swearing-in, all but the protester in the tree silenced, and when the oath was complete, cheers of “Obama! Obama!” and “Four more years!” rattled down the Mall.

President Obama: Inauguration

President Obama: Inauguration

There was a real energy from the crowd, and I am not sure it translated to television.  Aside from the partisan support and cheers, the massive sense of American pride, patriotism, and respect from the crowd was gratifying to see—and to be a part of.

As a political science student, I was especially elated to witness this majestic political process.  But I felt this more as an American than as a political science student.  I am a firm believer that, regardless of political affiliation, one can and should enjoy viewing our democracy in action, and I say that as part of a group of political science students who attended despite being split in their affiliations.  This open-mindedness and openness to others is key to our political and social relations, and should be practiced by our legislators and other elected officials far more often.Inaugural_Ticket_Web

We are in fact one nation, and as citizens of this nation we have the right to participate in processes unknown in parts of the globe.  It is an extraordinary political system we have, and I am grateful to have shared in its unfolding this year, and I hope to participate again in 2017, irrespective of the outcome of the next election.

Presidential Inauguration: Jessica Rodriguez

There were hundreds riding the Metro–at 4:00am–there were supporters sleeping overnight outside the gates to get the best “seat” and the closest view.  Hundreds of thousands defied the low temperatures, chanting, “Obama, Obama, Obama!”  All were part of our historic experience with the 57th Presidential Inauguration.

Inaugural_Newspaper_Web

For the third consecutive inauguration, the Junior Fellows traveled to D.C. to witness the U.S. President being sworn in as “leader of the free world.”  We stood outside in the cold for hours with several hundred thousand of our closest strangers to watch history unfold.  And while I am sure all of my traveling companions appreciated the historical aspects of the moment, I was the only one in the group who supported President Obama, and it had a particularly special meaning for me.

The event was one of the most memorable of my life.  It was my first trip to Washington, DC, and even the temperature hovering near 40 degrees did not stop me from being present to support Obama as he started his second term.  President Obama and I not only share many political beliefs, but he has also offered a solution to one of the biggest problems in my life: allowing immigrants the chance to have a work permit, opening new opportunities for me.  I am very thankful, and I have been given the opportunity to pursue my dreams.

Jessica Rodriguez at the 57th Presidential Inauguration

Jessica Rodriguez at the 57th Presidential Inauguration

Compared to the previous Presidential Inauguration in 2009, the Junior Fellows had better “seats” this year. We were fortunate to have Congressman Brady provide tickets to us at the prime location of the southwest corner of the Capitol grounds. Although the proximity to strangers, the pushing of the crowd, and listening to an annoying protester were not experiences I would wish to repeat soon, it was definitely worth having such a close view.

Rive Grogan, Protesting in a Tree

Rive Grogan, Protesting in a Tree

President Obama offered a spirited speech to reward the crowd for braving the elements.  The crowd regularly erupted enthusiastically, especially when he forcefully argued for equality on issues such as: pay, marriage, and immigration, among others.  And, of course, the crowd loved the music from Beyonce, Kelly Clarkson, and James Taylor.

Despite the cold, the crowd’s jostling, and the loud protester, it was a great moment, and I feel privileged to have been present at this moment in history.

 

 

 

 

Touring The National Mall With Hundreds of Thousands of Others

Birds at the Jefferson Memorial

Birds at the Jefferson Memorial

Today marked day four of the Junior Fellows Inaugural trip.  Last night we were treated with extra sleep: five whole hours! Our first stop of the morning took place promptly nearby in Staunton, Virginia at Woodrow Wilson’s home.  Featuring red brick and white trim, the house boasted a notable size while still maintaining a relatively simple and modest look.

The back of the home featured a path down to an extensive row of bushes, trimmed and organized into a maze of sorts.  The most important aspect however was the surrounding area.

The home is situated along a narrow street among numerous other cozy looking Georgian style homes.  The close knit nature of the neighborhood, combined with the rural atmosphere left me wanting to move in right then and there.  Woodrow had it well off in a simple environment.

As great as it was to start our day off exploring the home of President Woodrow Wilson, the JF’s were probably most excited to reach the destination that spurred this whole trip: Washington, DC.

Junior Fellows at the Washington Monument

Junior Fellows at the Washington Monument

The Mall area in Washington is very picturesque, a fact that brings large crowds, paradoxically making it difficult to get good pictures.  Nonetheless, we were able to see many of the monuments remarkably unimpeded by security. Two places in and around the mall area come to mind as being popular with the visitors: the Martin Luther King Memorial and the Lincoln Memorial.

Martin Luther King, Jr. Monument

Martin Luther King, Jr. Monument

The Martin Luther King, Jr. monument depicts the civil rights leader with his arms crossed, staring across the Tidal Basin toward the Jefferson Memorial.  The MLK monument is one of the newest to the Mall area, and it is a fitting monument for the occasion: the second inauguration of the first black President.

Though the MLK Monument was popular, the Lincoln Memorial was more so, and for good reason.

Taylor and Jessica, Lincoln Monument

Taylor and Jessica, Lincoln Monument

Not only is Lincoln one of our greatest president, but his monument also offers one of the most recognizable images in the United States and maybe even the world.

The Lincoln Monument

The Lincoln Monument

Looking east, the eye moves past the reflecting pool and is arrested by the impressive verticality of the Washington Monument, before gliding on toward the imposing Capitol structure.  You can’t beat that view.

View From Lincoln Memorial

View From Lincoln Memorial

We all wanted a picture at the Lincoln Monument.

Ryan at the Lincoln Memorial

Ryan at the Lincoln Memorial

The Korean War Memorial wasn’t an overly favorite monument among the group, but had a unique and eerie feel to it. The first noticeable part to the memorial is also its most distinctive part; scattered across a small field stands various soldier statues, each carrying their weapon, each having a different gaze.

The Korean Memorial

The Korean Memorial

Small plants and brush line the ground, giving you the feeling you are standing amongst a patrol in Korea.  Once you look to the left you find a lengthy charcoal grey wall.  This is no ordinary wall.  At a closer glance you will find the faces of various soldiers etched into the granite.  These ghost-like figures immediately gave me a sense of deserved solemnity.

Korean_Memorial_Reflection_Web

Both the wall and statues bring something different and new to the table when compared to the surrounding monuments, deserving respect not only to the fallen soldiers, but the artistic mind behind it.

Our next stop at the Thomas Jefferson Memorial was intriguing not only its design but with such beautiful weather it was captivating to see the afternoon sunlight rushing behind Jefferson’s statue which stands tall in the center. The engraving on both ends of the rotunda seemed to stand out a bit more, which made for a breath taking scene.

Jefferson Memorial

Jefferson Memorial

Jefferson looks across the Potomac toward the Washington Monument and beyond, to the White House.  It was one of our favorite monuments.

Junior Fellows at Jefferson Memorial

Junior Fellows at Jefferson Memorial

 

While the sun set over Washington, we had dinner with Junior Fellow alum Justin Veillon, who currently works for Congressman Kevin Brady.  While we caught up with Justin he was able to give us a vicarious glimpse into the life of a staff aide, covering the work he did, and offering his thoughts on living in Washington.  He gave us a better sense of how to move around D.C. For example, The Capitol is the center of the city and from that D.C. is divided in quadrants. As you travel through Washington it behooves you to have an idea what quadrant you are in and what direction you are driving because you could end up getting very lost. Justin also shared how the direction in which streets run can be quite a problem if you’re new in town. Some street lanes turn into contraflow lanes during certain times of the day in order to help rush hour, however, if you’re not familiar with this, you could be heading straight into another car. As a recommendation, we were told it is better and more efficient not to own a car and use the many transportation systems available throughout the city.

The Junior Fellows would like to thank Congressman Kevin Brady, Justin Veillon, and Brady’s office for providing us with tickets to the Presidential Inauguration.

Junior Fellows at the Capitol Building

Junior Fellows at the Capitol Building

 

Junior Fellows Get to Know William Howard Taft,US Grant, Mary Todd Lincoln, and Benjamin LaTrobe

Junior Fellows: Inaugural Tour

Junior Fellows: Inaugural Tour

Cincinnati’s location near the Kentucky border creates the sense that it is not the sole providence of Ohio, but instead a city shared by two states.   Though Kentucky and Ohio are separated by the Ohio River, numerous bridges create a seamless bond that makes determining whether you are on the Kentucky side or Ohio side of Cincinnati a difficult feat.   This shared bond is easily exemplified by the John A. Roebling Suspension Bridge, which opened for business in 1866.  Still functional today serving pedestrian and car traffic, it serves a unique purpose as a connection point for, as one example, sports fans who park on the Kentucky side with the numerous sports stadiums lining the Ohio River’s opposite edge.

The Roebling Bridge, Built in 1860s

The Roebling Bridge, Built in 1860s

These bridges also served our purpose – exploring the birth places of two former Presidents: William H. Taft and Ulysses S. Grant.  We began with a guided tour of the Taft family home, an elegant two-story home in northern Cincinnati where “Will” Taft was born and raised.

William Howard Taft Home

William Howard Taft Home

Our tour guide emphasized the unique family bonds among the Taft family members.

Taft Family Parlor

Taft Family Parlor

The Taft family, fairly accomplished and well-known in the public realm, knew the recipe for making all their children successful in whatever they endeavored to do with their lives.

Jessica Rodriguez & William Howard Taft

Jessica Rodriguez & William Howard Taft

Crisscrossing the Ohio River, we landed in Point Pleasant, OH to tour President Ulysses S. Grant’s birthplace.

US Grant Birthplace

US Grant Birthplace

Whereas Taft grew up in a large, well-appointed house, Grants’ beginning was more humble–he was born in a one-bedroom rented cabin.   His dad worked at the tannery; this craft was passed down to his son as well.  These homes exemplified the opposite ends of the spectrum from which two of our great presidents originated.

Afterwards, we drove to Lexington, Kentucky to visit the Mary Todd Lincoln home.  Mary Todd, President Abraham Lincoln’s wife, came from a very wealthy and educated family.  The family’s Georgian style home, built in 1832, has approximately 14 rooms, each elegantly decorated with attention to detail.  No doubt when Mrs. Lincoln brought Mr. Lincoln to her childhood home, he probably entertained headaches often, as the 6’3” doorways meant that 6’4” Lincoln would have had to stoop to pass through them.  Her upbringing in Kentucky as well as family ties to the confederacy spurred distrust among some of Lincoln’s advisors and the media.  In truth, Mrs. Lincoln was a staunch Union supporter.

Junior Fellows at Mary Todd Lincoln

Junior Fellows at Mary Todd Lincoln

And while not the home of a President or First Lady, our next tour was perhaps one of the most unique experiences of the day.  It took place at a house created by the famous architect Benjamin Latrobe for Senator Pope, the house known as “Pope Villa.”  Latrobe is often noted for unique homes across the U.S., as well as his modeling of the present-day White House; however, only three of his homes are still standing today – so, getting to visit this home was quite a privilege.  We were warned that the home was experiencing renovations, which in the end proved to only provide for a more interesting commentary about the house and its history.  Our tour of the Villa was definitely different.  Rather than walking the halls of a fancy, preserved home, similar to the Todd home, we found ourselves viewing a house covered in blemishes and missing complete sections, displaying years of wear and tear.

Benjamin Latrobe's Pope Villa

Benjamin Latrobe’s Pope Villa–Interior

Various sections were roped off, presumably part of current preservation initiatives, giving us a chance to discuss what operations were currently under way in terms of saving the home.  The reason this seemingly unappealing tour was actually nice was that the tour focused on architecture and renovation rather than on the individuals who had lived there.  Even as we stepped over gaps in the floor and avoided falling pieces of plaster, we were able to learn a great deal about the approach Latrobe took when adding small details to the home, as well as certain restoration efforts.  For example, one method of “fixing” a scratched or pitted brick exterior included cutting out individual bricks, and turning them over to use the back side.  Learning these tips and tricks, and the general difficulty and complications in adopting, preserving, maintaining a home such as this for historical purposes was truly eye-opening.

We finished off the day with a quick stop in Charleston, West Virginia (one more capitol for the record books) and dinner at the downtown Quarrier Diner.  It is the only diner in Charleston, and they’ve recently revamped their menu to reflect that although we heard that a few dishes they used to serve are sorely missed among their regulars.  The wait staff was prompt and the food was plain good.  Just be sure, as they inform you at the door, that you’re appropriately attired!

Taylor Parker–KLTV Correspondent for Presidential Inauguration

Junior Fellows: Inaugural Tour

Junior Fellows: Inaugural Tour

Taylor Parker served as a correspondent for KLTV (Tyler Television) following his attendance at the Presidential Inauguration.  You can watch the video by clicking here, or by clicking the screenshot, below:

Taylor Parker on KLTV

Taylor Parker on KLTV

The Junior Fellows’ photos (thanks Jessica and Will!) were used for this segment, and Taylor did his second “press interview” of the week!

Junior Fellows Spend Time With Abraham Lincoln, Frank Lloyd Wright, and Others

The Junior Fellows set out this morning for day two of our inauguration trip, beginning a twenty-one hour day that will take us to two Frank Lloyd Wright Homes, the Gateway Arch, the Lincoln Tomb, the Lincoln Presidential Library, two state capitol buildings, and the Benjamin Harrison home.

While many people say that they interact with art, few people can say they have lived in a piece of art.  For Russell Kraus, however, that’s just how he felt when he hired Wright to design his home in 1950.  And after moving in, Kraus treated it as priceless artistic treasure, preserving the Wright design, furniture, and art for almost sixty years.

Now open to the public for tours, the home is a dazzling display of Wright’s virtuosity.  It is one of Wright’s “Usonian homes,” so designated because this type of home was designed for families of modest means in the “United States of North America.”  Wright wanted his Usonian homes to be affordable, but he also wanted them to have character, to be distinct and interesting.

Frank Lloyd Wright House at Ebsowrth Park

Frank Lloyd Wright House at Ebsowrth Park

The house is designed as two overlapping parallelograms, and all of the home’s angles are either 60 or 120 degrees (with only two exceptions in bathrooms, made to accommodate bathtubs).  Virtually every design in the house—the floor patterns, the patios, even the bed—are designed as either a parallelogram or a hexagram, giving the home a visually consistent theme.

How detailed was Wright? Well he made sure that even the flathead screws were aligned with the angle of the wood that it was holding. The chairs were unusually designed, falling into “butterfly” or “origami” patterns, the latter an influence of his work in Japan.  The effect was visually appealing, but it’s not clear what sitting in the chairs would actually feel like (no pictures were allowed inside the home).

But with any Wright home, there comes a set of guidelines that, although not stipulated in a legal document, are made clear by the designer.  Accordingly, out of a professional courtesy, when Kraus felt he needed to change the home in some small manner over the fifty or so years he lived there, he first requested “permission” from Wright.  Fortunately, he didn’t change much, and what he did change was in accordance with Wright’s wishes, making the Kraus Home at Ebsworth Park a real treat for preservationists and art lovers.

Junior Fellows at the Kraus Home, in Ebsworth Park

Junior Fellows at the Kraus Home, in Ebsworth Park

We had another taste of Wright later in the day, when we arrived in Springfield, Illinois.  There we saw the magnificent Dana-Thomas House (1902), which is more than 12,000 square feet—definitely not a “Usonian.”  Although there are only two “stories” in the Dana-Thomas Home, there are actually six separate vertical levels within the home, exhibiting typical Wright-like complexity.  Wright also hand designed the window art, which is evident in every pane in the house.  According to the Site Manager, Justin Blandford, about ninety-five percent of what exists in the home was designed by Wright for the home, making it (along with the Kraus Home) one of the best preserved Wright structures existing.

Dana-Thomas House, Designed by Frank Lloyd Wright

Dana-Thomas House, Designed by Frank Lloyd Wright

Speaking of architects, we were also able to see the work of Eero Saarinen.  The work is the Gateway Arch, and it is the tallest man-made structure in the United States.  It is six-hundred and thirty feet high, and it symbolizes the nation’s westward expansion and St. Louis’s status as the gateway to the west.

Gateway Arch, St. Louis

Gateway Arch, St. Louis

To “heighten” our experience, we rode to the top in what the Museum generously calls a tram, but which most of us referred to as a “pod,” and what some Junior Fellows referred to as a “death trap.”  It went slowly up at first, occasionally with a herky-jerky horizontal motion, and then moved faster as it got momentum.

At the top, the view was breath taking.  On the west side, one can see the St. Louis Courthouse, Busch Stadium, and the Wainwright Building.

View West of Gateway Arch, from the Top

View West of Gateway Arch, from the Top

We are very thankful that two of our Alumni—Daniel North and Dana Angello, both former Presidents of the organization—stopped by to accompany us.  In fact, Mr. North actually bought our tickets up the Arch.  Thank you!

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Junior Fellows at Gateway Arch

We also were able to briefly stop by the Courthouse where Dred Scott filed his papers for his freedom, leading to the (in)famous Supreme Court case in 1856…

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…and also check out the park to the west of the courthouse.  The park features, “The Runner,” a statue reinforcing the theme of westward expansion.

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To top off the day’s main events we decided to enjoy a series of Lincoln-dedicated stops throughout Springfield, Illinois, Lincoln’s hometown. We started by visiting Lincoln’s tomb, a large gravestone enclosed in a room at the base of a tall monument in the form of an obelisk.

Abraham Lincoln's Tomb

Abraham Lincoln’s Tomb

There was a reverent atmosphere about the place, evident by silence and hat removals.

Lincoln Tomb

Lincoln Tomb

From here we darted a few blocks away to the Lincoln Presidential Museum, next door to the Lincoln Presidential Library, making it just in time to enter. The museum did a fine job of recreating the major scenes from Lincoln’s life, using mannequins and holograms to great effect.

Lincoln and his Family

Lincoln and his Family

Even more impressive were historic items such as a “life mask” taken of Lincoln shortly after he was elected President and, of course, the Emancipation Proclamation.  Unfortunately, other than the main foyer area and outside, no pictures were allowed inside the Museum.

Junior Fellows Outside Lincoln Presidential Museum

Junior Fellows Outside Lincoln Presidential Museum

We wound down our Lincoln tour with a trip the Lincoln Home.

Abraham Lincoln Home, Springfield, IL

Abraham Lincoln Home, Springfield, IL

We have to hand it to the planners in Springfield. Not only have they preserved his home, but they also preserved the homes that extent one block in every direction.  Our feeling was one of stepping back in time, standing among the beautiful homes in Lincoln’s neighborhood.  Unfortunately, the feeling was short lived as we climbed in our automobile and made our way to the hotel for the night.

Just before settling in for the final car ride for the night, we took a side stop in Indianapolis, Indiana. If you have dismissed Indianapolis as an unexciting Midwestern stopover, you might want to rethink your view.  With a brief drive by of the Indianapolis Motor Speedway, we saw the place where the famed Brickyard 400 takes place, and the even more famous Indianapolis 500. Though we didn’t see much (it already being dark), it was a definite treat to stop by and see the only nationally landmarked motor speedway in the US, and to bear witness where “the greatest spectacle in racing” takes place every memorial weekend.

Also impressive is “Monument Circle,” a 284-feet monument dedicated to those who fought in American wars.  The monument was built in 1901, so the dedications stop with the Spanish-American War, but it was imposing and impressive, and offered amazing views of the state capitol building.

Consistent with our president-themed trip, we also visited the Benjamin Harrison home, which was beautiful.  The home had four levels, and was quite large.  Perhaps most interesting, however, was the front porch.  Not only was it warm and inviting, as any Victorian era home should be, but more importantly it was the porch from which he ran his famous “front-porch” campaign in 1888.

Benjamin Harrison Home

Benjamin Harrison Home

Today was our “Midwestern Tour” day, moving us through three key Midwestern states and informative, entertaining, and educational sites—a perfect priming for Washington, DC and the Presidential Inauguration.

DC Destinations: Presidential Inauguration Tour, Day One

Junior Fellows: Inaugural Tour

Junior Fellows: Inaugural Tour

Today the Junior Fellows began our week long journey to the presidential inauguration in Washington D.C. The trip, although planned around the annual swearing-in ceremony, promises many historic and intriguing stops along the way. After a 3 a.m. start, we stopped first in Dallas at the site of President Kennedy’s assassination. As we walked along Elm Street we took note of two white X’s designating the locations of both fatal gunshot wounds. It was surreal standing before them with the grassy knoll to our right and the infamous six story building of death looming behind us.

Sixth Floor Museum and Elm Street

Sixth Floor Museum and Elm Street

This was where JFK was actually shot, and we six were standing in the once chaotic vicinity in silence. Being able to stand in a historic crime scene was unsettling, even for students born almost thirty years after the assassination.

Our next stop took us to Denison, Texas: the birthplace of Dwight Eisenhower. Ike’s home resembled a small dollhouse of sorts, all white and perfect. The quaint house sat atop a hill, complete with a small garden in the back and the perfect climbing tree stretching out above roof. This was a childhood dream come true. It was an overall simple setup, representing President Ike’s humble origins. This was his home only for a short time, though; his family moved to Kansas shortly after Ike’s first birthday.

Eisenhower House: Denison, TX

Eisenhower House: Denison, TX

Some fifty yards from the house stands a statue of Eisenhower to commemorate such a historic site.
General Eisenhower

General Eisenhower

It’s also worth noting that Denison pays more visible homage to Ike by showcasing a large bust of Eisenhower on the highway running near the City.  The bust was done by David Addickes, who is well know to Huntsvillians for his large statue of Sam Houston on I-45.  It’s pretty nice to travel and make connections to your adopted hometown.

Eisenhower Bust

Eisenhower Bust by David Addickes

Speaking of connections, we visited the University of Arkansas‘s Law School in Fayetteville, where we saw some very nice art work by Jesus Moroles–the same artist who did the CHSS Outdoor Classroom on SHSU’s Campus.  On the outside of the Law school, you are greeted with 3 pillar granite structures, although this is only an appetizer.

Moroles's Sculptures, U of Ark Law School

Moroles’s Sculptures, U of Ark Law School

If you go inside the law school and walk into the Court yard, you will see where Moroles really left his mark….

Moroles Sculptures, U of Ark Courtyard

Moroles Sculptures, U of Ark Courtyard

In fact, in the commemoration of his work, President Bill Clinton was on hand to celebrate the new art work for the Law School. President Clinton was actually a Law Professor at the Law School in the 1970s, and there is a “Clinton House Museum” nearby.

UA has that quintessential college town look, the kind of look everyone thinks a college campus should look like. And though no college campus could ever come to that idealized image of the Greek columned design, it comes awfully close.  Each building has a look that almost suggests costs were an afterthought. The end result? Buildings that individually have a unique identity yet complement the community of other University buildings along with open green spaces. And though each building holds its own amongst the others, there is one that is the pride and glory of UA, and that building was the Old Main.  Built in 1875, it evokes the look and feel of prestige for an accomplished university.

Old Main and the Moon, University of Arkansas, FayettevilleOld Main and the Moon, University of Arkansas, Fayetteville

After spending a lot of time looking at art and architecture at the University of Arkansas, we headed to Bentonville, where we would see a lot more.  But first, we stopped for delicious  burgers at The Station Cafe in downtown Bentonville, AR.  The City’s downtown square is beautiful, and they even boast the first store of Sam Walton, who would go on to build the Wal-Mart empire.

But the City’s true centerpiece is the Crystal Bridges Art Museum.  Upon first seeing it I was I was very impressed at the size and beautiful architectural design. The architecture resembles that of the iconic opera house of Sydney, Australia. The master mind behind its interesting design is architect Moshe Safdie. The Art Museum sits on approximately 120 acres hosting and visitors are greeted with an intriguing tree sculpture at the entrance.

Tree Sculpture--Entrance to Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art

Tree Sculpture–Entrance to Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art

The museum has five permanent galleries that house more than 400 pieces of art that unfold in roughly chronological order.  In the first gallery, for example, we saw Gilbert Stuart’s George Washington portrait, a perfect starter for our presidential-themed trip.

Gilbert Stuart's George Washington

Gilbert Stuart’s George Washington

We then walked over to the Art Under Pressure exhibit. This exhibit included lithograph, etching, and woodcut works. The interesting part about many of these master pieces, like Samuel L. Margolie’s Men of Steel, is that most of these works are very controversial and spoke about political issues of their time period.

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Toward the end of the tour, we found ourselves surrounded by colorful abstract paintings, which I found interesting and enjoyed questioning everyone on what they saw in the pictures. One of my favorites was Au Cafe by Stanton Macdonald-Wright.

Eventually, we were surrounded by Mobil installations, bright colors, and odd shapes, and that was because we have reached the pop art section. We were surrounded by works ranging from Andy Warhol to Jackson Pollock. I was mesmerized but I must admit that the one piece that just blew my mind was Deborah Sperber’s “After Grant Wood,” which allows visitors to peer through a small crystal sphere and see what resembles Grant Wood’s American Gothic painting.

A Crystal, Through Which Spools of Threat Resemble "American Gothic"

A Crystal, Through Which Spools of Threat Resemble “American Gothic”

It is, however, simply an illusion made by 986 spools of thread.

After_Grant_Wood_2_Web

We concluded our visit by walking through the Light exhibition, which co reminded me of Carlos Cruz-Diez’s installations on the Museum Of Fine Arts Houston, and then we all walked the Crystal Bridges trail.

JFs_Crystal_Bridges_WebAfter a long and beautiful day…

JFs_Walking_Crystal_Bridges_web

..we headed back to the car for a long drive to St. Louis.  Tomorrow, we visit sites associated with the Gateway Arch, Frank Lloyd Wright, and the Lincoln Presidential Library, among other things!